There’s something about Renée…
For me, PRADA really delivered this season. I thought it was an extremely strong show. Precise, uncompromising and decidedly MODERN – a word bandied about so much these days. In a season of blindingly bright hues the PRADA electric blues, oranges and greens seemed the most potent and daring. The thing I like about PRADA is you really get a sense of the woman, the narrative. The total package. Miuccia Prada would most probably have been burned at the stake centuries ago. She is a witch, a magician and she can see the future!
The reviews of the show have referenced Josephine Baker, Carmen Miranda and sultry nights in Latin America but I see something much closer to home, more Southern France circa 1932…
When the model Jourdan Dunn took her turn on the catwalk she was the spitting image of Renée Perle, the Romanian model who was the mistress of the photographer Jacques Henri Lartigue. The finger-waved hair, a certain air of mystery and exoticism, grace and poise. It struck me that the PRADA show was less about hot tango nights and more about summers spent in the French riviera during the twenties and thirties. The broad stripes that recalled beach umbrellas, the easy, slightly drop waisted shifts that brought to mind the newly revealing swimwear of the period. That’s the genius of PRADA – you can read so much into it but at the end of the day, walk into the stores and you’ll find rail upon rail of brilliantly conceived, immaculately constructed clothes that you can wear. The message rarely overshadows the product.
And I find that truly MODERN. New Oxygen©
catwalk images: www.vogue.com, Olivier Claisse
J.H. LARTIGUE images:
CONTREJOUR DONATION LARTIGUE 1990
Remember the Love Cats from my Christmas post? [Click here to view it] Well they GOT HITCHED! It was quite possibly the most beautiful wedding ever. I mean, Italy, sunshine, prosecco, friends, an incredible castle… what more could you ask for? The groom wore Prada and the bride wore YSL – flowing, white and just gorgeous. With pockets too. Oh, Mama, you and your pockets! She wore a crystal embellished Sportmax bolero over the dress for the church and Jimmy Choo heels. What I loved about the dress was it’s lightness and the modern draping at the front which made it less formal.
I loved the way each table at the reception was named after a fashion house or a breed of cow. Lucy’s a fashion designer and Mattia comes from a family of dairy farmers who breed cows for the local Parmesan cheese industry. Prada or Aberdeen Angus? Witty. The gorgeous flower arrangements were a collaboration between Mr Eric Bremner and the Willow Shoreditch. Another match made in heaven!
At the end of the night… well, take a look at the pictures below. Now that’s what I call a modern, if slightly sozzled bride! HAPPY TIMES! CONGRATS Lucy & Mattia! Happy safari.
[That isn’t Mattia in the pic, btw. Don’t ask!]
Cordon Bluff: Come home to Momma
Prada Menswear Autumn-Winter 2010 [www.wwd.com]
The opening section of the Prada show felt the strongest. Even though it felt like the label was treading water/ reissuing house classics it somehow came across as fresh and looked cute, a word seldom used when describing menswear. The play on proportions was subtle and it quietly twisted classics. See the collegiate blazers in camel paired with shrunken, almost feminine marl knits. Bookish.
There’s an ease about these looks that makes them feel relevant and desirable. So much of the other shows were a bit over-styled or too focussed on youth culture. There’s a late 60s/70s vibe about the collection. Sort of a renegade librarian. The abstract camo prints that played on the idea of formica hinted at Julia Child whose life was brought to celluloid by Meryl Streep last year. In fact, the whole show seemed like it could have been inspired by Julia’s imaginary boffin son, home from Yale for thanksgiving, hanging out in the kitchen with momma, circa 1975.
Rem Koolhaas and 5 other partners are behind the Office for Metropolitan Architecture (OMA), one of the leading architectural partnerships in the world. A while back I did a post about the Prada lookbook which is art directed by OMA. They also do the show production for the Prada group as well as exhibitions and installation projects.
A recent one is the Transformer in Seoul, South Korea. A temporary space that can literally be rotated onto different sides of itself to convert its purpose. You can view more pictures of the Transformer and other projects on the OMA website and on the Prada Transformer blog.
Drafted this post last week so a bit out of date. Fashion moves too fast! Anyway_
“Something you might not be aware of… a little secret… not sure if I want to share it…What the heck. Go to http://www.prada.com and download the lookbook pdf. Genius. Catwalk images, backstage shots and all other types of randomness are cut and spliced into digital collages, drawn over, obscured, warped and generally f*cked up. All cleverly done by those lovely people at AMO.
Its hit and miss. When it works its fantastic. Surprising images that are sometimes better than the ad campaigns. Sometimes.
Oh, that Miuccia is a very clever lassie, isn’t she?”
Now for the REAL news_
Prada has a new book! Have I had my head stuck in sand or something? How did I miss this tasty little morsel of goodness? PRADA. BOOK. ABOUT. BLOODY. TIME. Buy it online on their website. About €100. Bargin. I know what’s gonna fill my stocking – Prada waders – this Chrismas. Feast your eyes on this, well, veritable feast. Way, way overdue…
Oh, that Miuccia is a very clever lassie, isn’t she?