Lace, flowers, rosettes, waft-y outbursts of tulle, crin, chiffon clouds… Somehow, and uncharacteristically so perhaps, I’m drawn towards prettiness. After the 90s-redux overload with its spin on severe intelligence pretty seems well, pretty avant-guard.
Take a closer at this nouveau coquette, presented to us mainly/partly by
Peter Copping at Nina Ricci, Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pier Paolo Piccoli at Valentino, Marco Zanini at Rochas, Sarah Burton at Alexander McQueen, Stefano Pilati at YSL and MiuMiu
and you’ll notice a darker undercurrent. It might not be immediately obvious but this is what makes it even more alluring.
Be it in the way a lace blouse has been edged in leather or a slit at the front of a ruffled skirt is just that little bit too high. The slit on arguably the skirt of the season at YSL – patch pocket displaced just so, convenient for a discreet scratch if need be!
Or the way a prim trench was slit under the arm, kimono style, or the back of a matronly blouse was cut in chiffon, again at YSL.
The aforementioned collections are all unquestionably individualistic but there is a fine silk thread that links them. There is nothing wallflower-y about this romantic heroine.
She is steadfastly urbane and knowing. And womanly.
She lives in the now and isn’t apologetic about her girlishness_
Its such a simple conceit. No need for a footnote, just an appealing dose of femininity with a gutsy hit of low-key raunchiness. And that feels quite fresh.
McQueen’s damsels distressed.
Catwalk images from http://www.vogue.com: Valerio Mezzanotti(Rochas) Marcio Madeira/firstVIEW(Valentino, Alexander McQueen, YSL)