Regular readers will know that I’m not a fan of uploading ad campaigns or editorial. This isn’t what this blog is about. When I do so its because I genuinely like the piece or it relates to something else. Like this Chanel jacket you see here, from the Spring-Summer 2010 campaign. I like it A LOT.
I have a love/hate relationship with Chanel. Individually, I love the pieces. As a show I sometimes find it plodding and contrived, bordering on the twee despite the creative chutzpah. Recently, however, their ad campaigns have been amongst the strongest. I wonder if Karl Lagerfeld still shoots them? They tell a story that is unmistakably Chanel’s and in a time when most brands are distilling their core values Chanel is arguably up there, stronger than ever.
This jacket is worth doing time for. If I was a girl and if I could afford it I would definitely be popping down to Rue Cambon. Hell, if I could afford it I’d buy it anyway. Collector’s item. Museum piece. Hang it on the wall and drool. It sums up the house ethos perfectly – a nonchalant approach to luxury. Who was it that said [Yves Saint Laurent?] “Wear your furs like a t-shirt, and your t-shirt like fur”? Or words to that effect. The message is still the same.
The collection was inspired by a romp through the farm yard, albeit a custom-built one in the middle of Paris. A couture barn dance. Not your typical farm hands, indeed. The pictures speak for themselves. An incredible amount of detail and texture done with a light hand. And the cut at the back… New Oxygen ©
“Handmade in England” – has a nice ring to it, doesn’t it? Seldom written these days, unfortunately, so it’s with great pleasure that I introduce to you Norton, MacCullough & Locke_
Messrs Laurelli, Gn and Manchée joined forces a year or so ago to create a brand in the vein of 1920s bespoke luxury. Dominic Laurelli headed design at Saville Row’s Swaine, Adeney & Brigg after a stint at Alexander McQueen. Lester Gn’s masters graduation collection featured impeccable tailoring and umbrellas. David Manchée spent many years at Swaine, Adeney & Brigg hand crafting trunks and custom made briefcases for the company and a roster of top level clients that included Hermes. These guys know their stuff. These guys know luxury.
The Devil is in the details. What I find refreshing about the brand is it’s subtlety. There isn’t a monogram in sight. Leave that to Louis Vuitton and Goyard. The pieces scream “collectables”. They are for keeps. Every little detail is so beautifully considered and brilliantly executed. From the super-soft skins, expensively muted palette, luxe components and perfect proportions. For a young brand it feels like it has been around for ages and that’s the clever thing about Norton, MacCullough & Locke – classic but contemporary at the same time. Ageless + cool.
They have already garnered an impressive client list including the Berkley Hotel in Knightsbridge, London and their services are in demand everywhere and in between Hong Kong and Scandinavia. I can see big things happening for these guys. Very big things.
An accessories trunk a group of friends and I commissioned for a very dear friend’s birthday.
Isn’t this delicious? That striped shearling_
Drafted this post last week so a bit out of date. Fashion moves too fast! Anyway_
“Something you might not be aware of… a little secret… not sure if I want to share it…What the heck. Go to http://www.prada.com and download the lookbook pdf. Genius. Catwalk images, backstage shots and all other types of randomness are cut and spliced into digital collages, drawn over, obscured, warped and generally f*cked up. All cleverly done by those lovely people at AMO.
Its hit and miss. When it works its fantastic. Surprising images that are sometimes better than the ad campaigns. Sometimes.
Oh, that Miuccia is a very clever lassie, isn’t she?”
Now for the REAL news_
Prada has a new book! Have I had my head stuck in sand or something? How did I miss this tasty little morsel of goodness? PRADA. BOOK. ABOUT. BLOODY. TIME. Buy it online on their website. About €100. Bargin. I know what’s gonna fill my stocking – Prada waders – this Chrismas. Feast your eyes on this, well, veritable feast. Way, way overdue…
Oh, that Miuccia is a very clever lassie, isn’t she?
These clothes make me wish I was a girl. Perfect. I want to be her…
In the words of Edwyn Collins:
I’ve never known a girl like you before…
Here you come a knockin’, knockin’ at my door
And I’ve never met a girl like you before
You give me just a taste so I want more and more
Images style.com (courtesy of Celine)
It’s that time of the year again. And, oh, how I’ve waited!
The Missus – Burberry
There’s a sudden chill in the air. Autumn’s taking her last gusty breath. The leaves have gone from amber and fawn to gold and rust. They’re now starting to form damp clusters of mush on pavements, back gardens and parks. Autumn’s turning ugly.
It’s the perfect time to start working those pre-winter looks. Not quite cold enough for a full on cashmere fest but getting there. Warming up to a theme, so to speak. Hmmm, the Burberry in brown felted tweed with the subtle black, dark brown and ash plaid latticing its way over the surface. Yes, she’s served me well. A good coat is so hard to find… the right coat, one that fits like a glove. Just as hard as finding the perfect pair of boots. This one works for me. And I’m not brown’s biggest fan.
However, I’ve had it for a few years now and the honeymoon’s sadly coming to an end. On the horizon beckons: “Not tonight, darling, I’ve got a headache.”/ cold shoulders – literally / slamming doors/ tearful reunions/ apologetic bunches of flowers/ an affair…
Yes, it’s time for a new winter lover. We probably wont meet this time around but I know what my lover will look like. Of this I’m certain…
Layers of grey, a subtle military influence. Less trench this time… more tailored. Slightly deconstructed, perhaps. A touch of August Sander… The following images from Joachim Shmid’s Photoworks 1982- 2007 (Steidl 2007) capture the mood_
Joachim Schmid – Photoworks 1982-2007 (Steidl 2007)
If you find my lover let me know, tell her I already miss her even though we have yet to meet…
(Sing along to the tune of Beyonce’s “If I Were A boy”.)
If I were a girl, without any delay,
I’d get AddLee down to Bond Street
Jump out in front of Miu Miu
And lust after this beautiful coat…
If I were a girl, I know how I’d wear this coat
I’d team it with my Loubies,
My lanvin blouse
and Marni skirrrrrrt, oh, yay!
I’d reach for my purse
Bet you know how it hurts
When you lose the one you wanted
To Cheryl, Pixie, Kelly [heaven forbid] or Alexa
And saw it plastered all over Heat…
[Oh, noooooooo, ooooh, noooo-0-ooo oh!]
If I were a girl…