Neil Barrett, Neil Barrett, Burberry
The biggest impression I’m getting from Milan is coats. Obvious, perhaps, seeing that its the winter collections and all, but there seems to be some extra love being given in the coat department. Great volumes, nifty details, luxe textures, good buttons, expensif colourways. Just delicious_
Pringle, Jil Sander par Raf Simons, Alexander McQueen
Last but not least: Puffa ULTIMO, jil sander
Cordon Bluff: Come home to Momma
Prada Menswear Autumn-Winter 2010 [www.wwd.com]
The opening section of the Prada show felt the strongest. Even though it felt like the label was treading water/ reissuing house classics it somehow came across as fresh and looked cute, a word seldom used when describing menswear. The play on proportions was subtle and it quietly twisted classics. See the collegiate blazers in camel paired with shrunken, almost feminine marl knits. Bookish.
There’s an ease about these looks that makes them feel relevant and desirable. So much of the other shows were a bit over-styled or too focussed on youth culture. There’s a late 60s/70s vibe about the collection. Sort of a renegade librarian. The abstract camo prints that played on the idea of formica hinted at Julia Child whose life was brought to celluloid by Meryl Streep last year. In fact, the whole show seemed like it could have been inspired by Julia’s imaginary boffin son, home from Yale for thanksgiving, hanging out in the kitchen with momma, circa 1975.